Moeraki Boulders, Shag Point, Dunedin, Invercargill and Te Anau

17/02/09

So the journey south continues and today we set off for Dunedin via the fantastic Moeraki Boulders on Hampden Beach. They are incredible spherical rock formations located right on the shore. Sadly, a lot of the smaller ones have been removed by tourists over the years so only the massive ones remain. I was leaping over them like a loon and we were both doing funny poses for the camera, just like everyone else. And just like everyone else, trying to make it look as though there was no one but us there.

So that was fun. Then we drove on to Shag Point and Matakaea where there were dozens of fur seals frolicking in the water, honking, play-fighting, sun bathing on the rocks, scratching etc. They are so graceful and agile in the water and yet so awkward and blubbery on land.

We drove straight through Palmerston and some other towns some of which are almost identical in their blandness. We arrived in Dunedin (or Duned In as Ric likes to call it) this afternoon and drove round the scenic Port Chalmers stretch off the coast to the north east of the city.

The Scottish influence of Dunedin is easy to detect, as we expected. The street names, architecture, some of the shops and even the people seem very Scottish. Were too knackered to do anything strenuous or even go to Cadbury's World this afternoon so went and saw 'Marley and Me' at the cinema. It as a good Jennifer Aniston/Owen Wilson flick and often very funny but I bawled my eyes out at the end. Not an easy film for dog owners to watch! I'm still desperate for a puppy though. They are a tie and hard work at first and demanding (as my poor mum knows only to well) but so loving, rewarding, good for one's health and such wonderful companions. I wish I had my dogizzle here right now. She'd love the sea-side walks we're doing.

18/02/09

Thinking that we might be going a little fast on this trip we decided to hang around Dunedin for another day so went to the Botanic Gardens and then over to the Otago Peninsula up a meandering road to Lanarch Castle, the only castle in New Zealand, which is tucked away over in the Otago Peninsula - http://www.larnachcastle.co.nz/index.pasp

The gardens there were very pretty and all the unusual alpine pants were fascinating. The views across the peninsula were amazing too. I could live somewhere round here quite happily I think. Some cool modern architecture - homes with enormous windows and interestingly laid out rooms etc.

That evening, we saw another film I've been looking forward to for ages, He's Just Not That In To You, which was rife with leading actors and had possibly too many characters and story lines and a few doubtful twists in the story but it hung together and was an enjoyable comedy. I have read the book (of course) and it conveyed its basic messages well, though pandered a little to the audience's assumed desire for happy endings and not all the. Some of the women in the cinema found it laugh-out-loud hilarious. It left bitter-sweet taste in my mouth as I identified myself a little too much with one of the less, shall we say, noble characters.

Ric, I should note here, loves these cheesy movies too so don't assume I'm dragging him along just to satiate my chick flick needs. They certainly give us plenty to talk about afterwards. We keep trying to thrash out film and novel ideas but failing to get anything down on paper, yet.

Can't wait to see Milford Sound and the glaciers in a few days.

19/02/09

I keep bashing my head on the ruddy cupboard that hangs down a bit at the back of the van which Ric finds hysterical. Will have a perma-headache soon. The zoom function in my camera has broken too which is super annoying.

Today we journeyed further west along the coast to Balclutha, Clinton, Gore (which has a very funny brown trout statue/mascot welcoming you in to town) and then down to Curio Bay to walk around the incredible petrified forest on the beach. We could make out some of the stumps and logs of the trees which burnt down by a volcano, penetrated with silica and quickly turned to rock millions of years ago. Ric managed to find two loose-ish pieces as souvenirs but I was less successful/naughty.

Then we drove on a little further to Slope Point, the southern most tip of the South Island. It's great to be able to jump out of the van, see what there is to see and then mooch on without having to hang around while a dozen other tourists take their mug shots and fanny about. I sometimes miss my bike and wish we could do some cycling here but then I also feel sorry for the poor sods we pass peddling their way up horrendously steep hills and chugging along long seemingly endless roads on their over-loaded bikes. This van has definitely been the best way to go.

After a long day of driving we finally arrived in Invercargill which, without wishing to offend, was a pretty dull town, like many others we have driven straight through on our journey. With little to do there, we headed off in to the Catlins region the next morning, a much less traveled part of the South Island, so we're told.

Along the way we went to look at tiny Monkey Island, so called because a monkey winch was once used to haul supplies off the boats which could only get so close to the shore. Once upon a time there weren't even dust tracks let alone roads in this area.

Then we checked out the Clifden Suspension Bridge and Clifden Caves which we almost overlooked completely - but what a find! They comprise of a huge dark, twisting, rocky, wet, glow-worm populated, limestone tunnel in the hills which, alas, we were too ill-prepared (and a bit chicken) to venture further than 50 metres in to.
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-visit/southland/murihiku/clifden-caves/

We passed through Riverton the oldest town in the Southern Island and famous for it's
pretty Paua shells. We then stopped off to buy a few sausages in Tuatapere, famous for it's sausages. Each town seems to have it's own collection of cute Victorian shops and houses.

20/2/09

We finally made it to Te Anau with its splendid lake, marking the start of our Fiordland adventure. It hasn't stopped raining since we got here which is a shame because it rather puts us off 'tramping' as they like to call it here. Realising that a pair of jeans and wind-proof jacket weren't going to shield me from the elements on these aforementioned treks I have invested in a nice pink fleecy top (I'm endeavouring to break away from my all-black habits) and waterproof trousers. Now I'm all warm and about 95% waterproof. Everywhere in town and even here at the campsite they try to flog you insect repellent to guard against the sand flies which are a real nuisance in some parts of the Fiordlands.

We went for a great rainforest walk along the moss lined Kepler Track today. The rain didn't stop but it wasn't too cold. Ric only has jeans so is rolling them up and wearing his flip-flops. We're beginning to wish we'd researched the area bit more and booked things in advance as it's pretty busy here. Now we 're trying to decide whether we can or should do one of the many three day walking tours around the famous Milford Sound. Another day here first we think.
Lots of older tourists in this town and we've yet to see the Kiwi Experience bus.

I should find out where The Lord of the Rings was filmed and add that the the list of things to see here...